Understanding Perfume Concentrations

From Eau de Cologne to Extrait de Parfum

Perfume is not defined solely by how it smells, but by how it is composed. One of the most important and often misunderstood aspects of fragrance is concentration. Terms such as Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Extrait de Parfum refer not to scent families or quality by default, but to the percentage of aromatic oils suspended in alcohol and, occasionally, water.

Understanding these differences helps explain why some fragrances fade quickly while others linger for hours, why some project loudly and others stay close to the skin, and why true luxury perfumery increasingly favours higher concentrations.

What Is Perfume Concentration?

Perfume concentration refers to the proportion of fragrance oils in a formula. These oils contain the aromatic compounds responsible for a scent’s character, depth, evolution, and longevity.

In general:

  • Lower concentrations emphasise freshness, volatility, and immediate impact.

  • Higher concentrations offer richness, complexity, slower development, and extended wear.

There is no universal standard, but the following categories are widely recognised in modern perfumery.

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Typical oil concentration: 2% to 5%
Longevity: 1 to 3 hours
Projection: Light, airy, fleeting

Eau de Cologne is the lightest and most volatile perfume concentration. Traditionally associated with citrus-forward compositions, colognes were originally designed for refreshment rather than endurance. Historically, they were used liberally throughout the day, often splashed rather than sprayed.

Characteristics of Eau de Cologne include:

  • Bright, fresh openings

  • Minimal development over time

  • Short wear time

  • Limited depth and complexity

While pleasant and easy to wear, Eau de Cologne is not intended to last. It prioritises immediacy over evolution, making it suitable for very casual or transient use, but rarely for those seeking a lasting personal signature.

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Typical oil concentration: 5% to 12%
Longevity: 3 to 5 hours
Projection: Moderate, often noticeable at first

Eau de Toilette is one of the most common fragrance formats on the market. It balances freshness with moderate longevity and is often chosen for its versatility and lighter feel.

Eau de Toilettes typically:

  • Emphasise top notes such as citrus, herbs, and light florals

  • Project more strongly during the first hour

  • Fade relatively quickly compared to higher concentrations

  • Require reapplication throughout the day

Because of their lower oil content, EDTs tend to prioritise immediate appeal over depth. While popular in mass-market perfumery, they often lack the richness and persistence associated with more concentrated formats.

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Typical oil concentration: 12% to 20%
Longevity: 6 to 8 hours
Projection: Controlled but noticeable

Eau de Parfum represents a significant step up in concentration and performance. With a higher proportion of fragrance oils, EDPs allow for more complex compositions and a longer-lasting scent experience.

Key characteristics include:

  • Better balance between top, heart, and base notes

  • Noticeable evolution over time

  • Greater longevity on skin and clothing

  • A more refined projection

For many brands, Eau de Parfum is considered the premium standard. However, even at this level, compromises are often made to prioritise mass appeal, price accessibility, or strong initial projection.

Parfum and Extrait de Parfum

Typical oil concentration: 20% to 40% and beyond
Longevity: 8 to 12+ hours
Projection: Intimate, refined, persistent

Extrait de Parfum, sometimes referred to simply as Parfum, represents the highest concentration category in modern perfumery. At this level, fragrance oils dominate the formula, resulting in a scent that behaves very differently on the skin.

At Thames & Amber, our Extrait de Parfums reach oil concentrations of up to 40%, placing them at the upper end of this category.

What Sets Extrait de Parfum Apart?

Extrait de Parfum is not simply a stronger version of Eau de Parfum. It is a fundamentally different experience.

Higher oil concentration allows for:

  • Greater depth and texture

  • Slower evaporation, meaning the scent evolves gradually

  • Longer-lasting base notes

  • A more intimate presence, rather than loud projection

Rather than announcing itself across a room, an extrait is designed to be discovered. It sits closer to the skin and reveals itself over time, rewarding proximity and attention.

Longevity and Skin Interaction

Because of the higher oil content, Extrait de Parfum binds more effectively to the skin. This results in:

  • Extended wear throughout the day

  • A scent that adapts subtly to the wearer’s natural chemistry

  • Reduced need for reapplication

Many people find that fewer sprays of an extrait achieve a more refined and enduring result than repeated applications of lighter concentrations.

Why Higher Concentration Often Means Higher Quality

While concentration alone does not guarantee quality, higher concentrations allow perfumers greater freedom to work with:

  • Natural raw materials

  • Dense resins, woods, and absolutes

  • Softer transitions between notes

  • More nuanced compositions

Lower concentrations often rely heavily on volatile ingredients to create immediate impact. Extrait de Parfum, by contrast, allows fragrance to unfold in layers, creating a more personal and enduring experience.

Choosing the Right Concentration

Choosing a perfume concentration depends on what you value most:

  • Freshness and lightness: Eau de Cologne or Eau de Toilette

  • Versatility and balance: Eau de Parfum

  • Depth, longevity, and intimacy: Extrait de Parfum

For those seeking a fragrance that becomes part of their presence rather than a fleeting impression, higher concentrations offer unmatched richness and refinement.

The Thames & Amber Approach

At Thames & Amber, we work exclusively with Extrait de Parfum.

This is a deliberate choice rooted in our philosophy. We believe fragrance should evolve slowly, sit close to the skin, and remain present without excess. High concentration allows us to reduce projection while increasing character, longevity, and complexity.

Our extraits are designed to be worn, lived with, and remembered. Fewer sprays. Closer wear. Greater depth.

In our view, this is perfumery at its most considered and expressive.